Challengingly Sweet Journey to Licuan-Baay, Abra

“No complaints. I am loving it not that I want to do it so that I have something to write but because it activates my brain cells to think, analyze and think again.”

And the memorable journey to the remote Cordillera town of Licuan-Baay continues. Taking the main road, it is Licuan at my left side and Baay at the right. Do not be confused, because Licuan and Baay are two recognized subdivisions of the town but these two subdivisions join together as one to form the town of Licuan-Baay. It is a unique case for such a town in the Philippines.

I just have seen the Chocolate Mountains and I am still at the back of the pick-up that I enjoyed the most while traveling along a road that might become impassable during heavy rains. But never mind about that because I have learned many things in this town. In the long run, the main reason why I travel is not really to relax, but to learn and discover. Our life is an unending course syllabus and the places we go are unlimited sources of knowledge.

As I continue the journey, I wondered how the people survive in this town and their strategies to survive in a remote town like this is another lesson worth studying for. I live in the city where trade, commerce and financial institutions thrive so for this subject, I must say I am dumb yet. I know studying these strategies requires living in this town. However, a day trip to Baay already gave me many information and it surely did gave additional knowledge to me.

I don’t mind the effort reaching the place because our life is a matter of adaptation. If you can adapt with what is uneasy, then moving to an easier life would be a bonus. It is your edge because you have been trained to dwell in a simpler town. That is, the townsmen of Baay are more resilient in terms of rural survival and that is their edge. They are well-trained to adapt to such situation and as I was saying, it is another life lesson we might want to learn.

And it was undeniably a long off-road riding. No complaints. I am loving it not that I want to do it so that I have something to write but because it activates my brain cells to think, analyze and think again. It keeps the brain functioning. Everything I see was a great subject to think on.

A lot of questions linger in my mind. It was a jigsaw puzzle on how could I reconcile the things. Why the mountains are brown? Why eucalyptus trees are planted atop the hills? How do the people mine gold? How often they go to market to shop? How does the road look like when it is raining? How come there’s gold in those mountains? Uh… endless questions. It keeps my brain functioning. Visiting this town is a quest for knowledge.

My trip to the town is indeed unforgettable. I am just lucky that I was allowed to hitch on a car for free. Everytime I share my experiences to my friends and relatives, they would say “Nagtured kan! (You’re brave!)” – thinking about the bad publicity people hear about Abra. But that’s not the point. Abra has a different side that people overlook onto. It is a province where hidden natural wonders are left untouched (or less explored at least), thus, the original beauty may remain.

I am still at the back and I asked someone beside me if we’re near. The man who is a resident of the town and who was with me said, “We’re near,” and after an hour, we’re still on the road. So that is how he defines near. Just imagine how huge the size of this mountain town is, that the time you have to consume traveling within the town speaks about hours. Well, this is the case at the Baay side and going to the barangays of Licuan side is another story. Huge town!

I can sense that we are gradually descending and at a point, I am now seeing a river streaming down the valley. Yup! We’re heading to a valley which is the heart of the Baay side. There are schools and houses already — a community veiled by the mountains!

So I reached the heart of Baay – very raw! [Almost] everything I see is a work of nature. The brown mountains have turned green. The place is very laid back yet nostalgic. It feels like I am really lost!

The shallow river is teaming with natural resources. At the banks of the river is an edible fern called pacpaco and a main stay river fish called palileng. These are gifts of nature that the people of Baay are harvesting.

A mini-waterfall along the road

Crossing the river

Pacpaco or Paco (Pako) – the edible fern I ate in Baay

…reached the town under a beautiful sunny weather

…met the town mayor, Hon. Christopher Millare (middle) at his house

For security and safety purposes

For self-defense purposes, lols!

Finally, finally, finally. I have reached the heart of Baay. I have endured the exhausting ride but it was all of worth because of the new discoveries I learned.

But wait, the sweet journey isn’t over yet because I have to leave the house of the mayor for a separate adventure. Sharing my experience going to that surprise destination might make this blog post a multi-chapter book so I am omitting it. For the second time, I have to trek without a footwear again. I have to do it because my guide did it so I thought it was a must. Below is my guide trekking in barefoot. To be continued…

My guide, trekking in barefoot

Location of Licuan-Baay, Abra on Map

Click the map above to load all posts about Licuan-Baay or you can follow the series below:

Licuan-Baay series: Part 1 | Part 2 | You are Reading Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7

EDMARATION etc Copyright2011

Unscripted Off-Road Back-Riding to the Chocolate Mountains

“This is no longer a part of the script but it is essential to make the story worthy. This is purely an escape and a beautiful way of getting lost!”

The path was not easy. It requires that you must get physical and brave. And I said, it is unscripted because it is not the type of off-road riding designed for packaged/paid-tours wherein the things you are going to see and the so-called “off-road” you are going to take is like a script of a movie that is already written and anticipated and it mainly caters the thrill designed for tourists paying for the touristy off-road rides.

I call this natural wonder as Chocolate Mountains.

So this pick-up back-riding adventure has a different script. The script is on the spot and it requires a driver who can go on the spot and a guide who is knowledgeable enough about the destination to keep the story going.

The destination is the town of Licuan-Baay, a place not recommended for solo travelers (as per assessment) and an overnight stay for strangers is a scene that should be cut by the director of the movie. If you haven’t heard about that town, I have made an introduction post to help you get an idea what to expect there (click here) but of course, that intro post is just the surface. We will explore this town deeper in the upcoming posts of this series.

…and I miss these instant friends!

I was riding at the back of a pick-up. It was a personal choice. Although I was given a chance to ride like a prince, I preferred to savor the view of this first-time-to-see destination. I wanted a bigger space where I can rotate my body 360degrees. I practically didn’t want to miss any good thing.

With me at the back are two men whom I have met for the first time. We don’t know each other but an instant friendship was established.

We devised ways to make our stay at the back comfortable and adaptable. But it turned out to be more memorable than comfortable.

The fast-running car has left us awed as we pass the road amidst wide post-rainy season brown grazing fields then slowly but surely, the road has been successful enough to conceal that we are already ascending to a higher altitude.

Prelims: Pine-clad mountains, Eucalyptus-topped hills

Pine trees growing naturally along the road

Eucalyptus-topped post-rainy days brown hills.

The start of the ride will not allow you yet to see the Chocolate Mountains as I call it because those preliminary mountains host pine trees naturally while some are intentionally planted with eucalyptus that give a menthol-y smell to the air.

But if you try to notice them, mostly are low-rise mountains and hills already covered with post-rainy days brown grasses. 

The smooth start

The start of the ride was smooth. As you go farther, the scene becomes different. Totally different from the capital town — empty road that gradually turns rough and those mountain views not seen in the capital town.

I was just enjoying the smooth ride as we gradually ascend to the mountains. All I know that time is I will be seeing heavily-forested lush green mountains of December.

_______________

As we were going farther, more remote than ever, I was expecting that the mountains must have thicker woods and hardcorely verdant mountains but the script of the real-life movie where I was a part was just unpredictable. 

You don’t know what will happen next and how the story will end because as I go deeper to the Cordilleras, the mountains start to become brown.

“Oh, where am I going?” I asked myself. The place becomes more strange every second and the movie has turned oblivious for the ending.

However I know, this will be more exciting. I have erased all the expectations in my mind and just waited what will happen next – not certain but I think it is much better. At least, I know I am in good hands and I am safe wherever they will take me.

The real score has come. The flow is no longer smooth, it starts to become bumpy and dusty as the environment starts to turn brown and the sun has poured out heat to indirectly squeeze out our sweat.

It becomes tiring and more challenging I know but it becomes more thrilling. This is no longer a part of the script but it is essential to make the story worthy. This is purely an escape and a beautiful way of getting lost!

Licuan-Baay is the name, the home of this brown paradise. These natural features are higher/taller than Bohol’s Chocolate Hills but they are less known, undiscovered and too remote to see. As the off-road back-riding becomes more intense, the reward becomes more alleviating.

There it appears and this is now real! The pine-clad and eucalyptus-topped mountains have just diverted my expectations. It was like a tremendous mound of chocolates!!!

The view is surreal! I can’t help but to take cycles of deep breathes and it took me few minutes before sinking-in to the point that what I was seeing is real.

Actually the town is too huge that a day is not enough to explore the place and it could be costly and butt-numbing. My white shirt has turned cream and my dark skin has turned whiter because it was totally covered with dusts.

Endless mound of chocolates, that is. But I am not telling that all mountains in Licuan-Baay look like this. There are also green mountains and mind you, these chocolate mountains (a personal name I coined for these mountains) turn green during rainy days. Check out the photo below.

There’s nothing to lose, rain or shine, there’s something magnificent to see. If this is the price, I would not mind traveling off-road once again and every now and then.

As we were winding the off-roads in the Chocolate Mountains, I thought I have already penetrated deep the Abrenian Cordilleras but I was wrong, we are still going deeper and those brown mountains were just a grand welcome. We’re still at the surface of the town! The town is really huge and it is composed of two unofficial districts called Licuan and Baay.

I was able to penetrate more of the Baay side and it is another story as the road is getting intensely excruciating and the challenge is getting exclusive for the brave and the determined. For those who can not take a more extreme level of off-road traveling, think twice.

Military escort turned photographer (photo op)

The adventure was made possible through these people (Candid shot)

Look at those mountains at the back!

The story doesn’t stop here. The scene got more intense and thrilling as we go deeper in the town. This is the real sense of adventure. Now I am feeling how to get really lost wonderfully! 

I discovered great things in Baay, but before reaching the inner barangays, it requires that we have to survive the next part of the challenge. To be continued…

Map of Abra showing the location of Licuan-Baay

Licuan Baay Series: Part 1 | You are Reading Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7

EDMARATION etc Copyright2011

Licuan-Baay: an Introduction to the Town-of-Gold

“The scope of Licuan-Baay is extensive and expansive. You need to get a guide beforehand who is familiar enough of the town. Reaching the barangays and communities of the Tingguian (Itneg) people is tricky”

I got this opportunity to visit another town in Abra called Licuan-Baay. I would say it is a remote town with communities hiding within those seemingly endless range of brown mountains covered with grasses like the Chocolate Hills type. The town is literally a town-of-gold because it has gold deposits and those golden wealth are being extracted by the residents of the town through small-scale mining activities.

Brown Mountain Ranges

When I first heard about the town, I was thinking it was made up of two towns fused together but they are actually one since. Interestingly, the town is actually divided into two (2) unofficial districts called Licuan and Baay. The other side of those towering mountains is Baay and the other one is Licuan. I was able to explore more of the Baay side.

Reaching and Exploring (the town): Citing the Difference

Exploring the town is not as easy as eating ripe mangoes. If you are a solo traveler wanting to do it solo is a suicidal attempt so please spare this place if you are brokenhearted. Yes, I have done several solo travels that require trekking and hiking and I would say those were just easy compared to how I reached the inner communities of the town.

Going to Licuan-Baay didn’t require me to trek and hike (at most) and you think it was easy? Nope. I was even given a chance to ride on a decent car courtesy of some kind people of Abra but that doesn’t mean I didn’t have to experience exhaustion.

Ok, let’s say it this way. You can actually reach the town via the Kalinga-Abra road easy because the said road is paved and improvement is under way. But you will just stick to what you can see at the highway which are mountain ranges and nothing but mountains. I tell you, the beauty of the town is hidden behind, in between and beneath those mountains talking about protected caves and subterranean rivers.

‘Reaching’ Licuan-Baay via Kalinga-Abra Road

So to make the visit to this town worth it, I really want to use the cliche word explore and ‘reaching’ the town is different from ‘exploring’ the town. 

If you are a first timer, you can not simply rely to your maps and GPS even if you have your own car if you want to try the word explore solo.

You need a guide, I tell you, you need a guide. You can not get a guide in town at instant. The scope of Licuan-Baay is extensive and expansive. You need to get a guide beforehand who is familiar enough of the town. Reaching the barangays and communities of the Tingguian (Itneg) people is tricky.

‘Exploring’ the town is a whole different story

So now you know the big gap of difference of reaching and exploring the town and you will learn more if you will keep an eye to my Licuan-Baay series. 

The people are specific about their location if they are from Baay or Licuan. But as I was saying, Licuan-Baay is a single town with two major unofficial subdivisions. The seat of the municipal government is located at the Licuan side while the schools and the house of the town mayor is located at the Baay side.

The town and the people

Tingguian Elders in Baay

Licuan-Baay is a town of around 4000 people which belong to the Tingguian tribe (or Itneg bloodline). Like other towns in Abra, the people of Licuan-Baay speak their own Itneg dialect while Ilocano is spoken when they go to the capital town of Bangued.

I got the chance to meet the people of the Baay side and met some of the amazing Tingguian elders in Brgy. Bulbulala. They don’t wear traditional tribal clothes and they are just like us. But one thing that makes them unique and identifiable to others is their Itneg dialect.

The Itneg people who are educated can speak Ilocano, English and Filipino too. I am just talking about the dialect here. I know there are more with regards to their culture, practices and customs but to understand that, it requires that I have to live with them in a considerable length of time. Of course, I don’t want to talk as if I am very familiar of their tribe.

They are great people! Very warm, very kind, very hospitable and welcoming!

Baay National High School

The town has 11 huge barangays and I was able to visit 3 of them called Nalbuan, Bulbulala and Tumalip and a sitio called Tubong.

The three barangays are just wonderful. I was welcomed with great food, great sceneries and of course  warm people.

Teens in Nalbuan killing time at this foot bridge

Old House in Bulbulala

Exotic Food in Sitio Tubong (Tab-Tabba)

Fresh Highland Buko in Tumalip

Rice fields in Bulbulala

I have a lot of experiences to share. I was welcomed by the peaceful scenes in Nalbuan, encountered an exotic food in Sitio Tubong, I got to see old houses in Bulbulala and taste a fresh highland buko in Tumalip.

I know this will take me long so I have to cut my Licuan-Baay adventures into series.

Town of Gold

Mt. Cap-Cappo, the mountain of Gold

One of the most notable landmarks in Licuan-Baay, Abra is probably this mountain that seems to have no life. I mean, it does not have vegetation, it is barren and looks dangerous. 

But I would erase my previous statement that it has no life because it actually gives life. It gives livelihood, or source of income to the people by giving them the golden opportunity, that is, to extract the gold therein via small-scale mining.

Another golden mountain

The photo above is another golden mountain that used to be the favorite place for gold-diggers like a large-scale mining firm. 

The town mayor said that this mountain used to be ‘bald’ and has craters due to the large-scale mining activities but now has recovered when the firm stopped extracting golds there.

To date, only small-scale mining activities are allowed there and the people of Licuan-Baay mainly benefit from it.

So now? I am not yet done! I have a lot of discoveries and stories to share in this mountain town. 

Map of Abra showing the location of Licuan-Baay

Licuan-Baay Brown Mountains, one of the many things to expect

How I was able to reach and explore this mountain town is a long story. This is just an introduction and I have more overflowing stories to share.

So what to expect and see in the town? There are plenty of them not yet mentioned in this intro post. Expect butt-numbing off-road adventures and liquid wonders. To be continued…

Licuan-Baay Series: You are Reading Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7

EDMARATION etc Copyright2011

San Quintin, Abra Travel Guide | Tourist Spots, Itinerary, Things to Do

The town maybe new to you but I just want to introduce an itinerary the town explorer way. I would mean that this travel guide would not fit every traveler (because each traveler has a style and preference). The things I am going to introduce are not good for senior citizens unless they can ride a motorcycle with ease. If you are a rider or a thrill-seeker, this itinerary would fit you but I just want to clarify that this is only applicable to the town of San Quintin in Abra and you can still visit other towns in the province after doing this.

For those who want to spend an ample time exploring the town, I hope this would help. I actually encourage everyone to explore our towns in the Philippines wholeheartedly and that would include understanding the history and the pulse of the town. I believe a town can offer us new discoveries only if we try to explore them.

I also recommend using a motorcycle if you do it because it is easier to do the task but it will still depend on you if you want to use a truck, a bicycle your ferrari or simply alay lakad to death :p.

For the mean time, let’s focus first to the town. Before we begin, I would want to first show you where San Quintin, Abra is located just in case you haven’t read the previous posts of this series where I also placed this map. For the suceeding map, it will be more specific where in San Quintin those points of interest are located.

Take note that you can still make your own itinerary by including other towns so I am reiterating that this is specific to San Quintin only.

Although I will be making a comprehensive Abra province Itinerary after I will be able to blog all the towns I have explored in Abra, I want to be town-specific first then I will come to compile them all for my upcoming province-wide comprehensive travel guide for the province.

If you have followed my San Quintin Series, you will learn later that this post will just be a compilation of all the places I discovered in San Quintin. Ok let’s begin:

[1] Stop Over at Tangadan Tunnel

Tangadan Tunnel is I think the most notable landmark in the province of Abra. This will always be the first on the list for the itinerary if you are reaching Abra via the Maharlika Highway then turning to Ilocos Sur-Abra Road because this serves as the welcome arch (no, not really an arch, it is a tunnel). Take your photo here and appreciate the structure. For more information about the historical value of this tunnel, read more…

[2] Gabriela Silang Monument at Abra Welcome Park

Pay homage to the greatest heroine of Abra. She is Gabriela Silang, born in the town of Santa in Ilocos Sur but claimed by the people of Abra that she was born in the town of Pidigan in their province. Beside the Tangadan Tunnel is the Abra Welcome Park where this monument is standing. Learn more about Gabriela Silang and the history of this monument: Read more…

[3] Reach the Town Hall

Well, there is nothing special about this town hall but it is important that you know where it is because it serves as a guiding landmark. Anyway, when I go to every town, I always make sure to see how their town hall looks like. It mirrors how wealthy a town is (most of the time) and it will give you an idea. The town hall is about 30-40 minutes from the Tangadan Tunnel. Just ask some people along the way where the town hall is located. The town hall requires you to turn left from the main highway so ask some people. Don’t worry, they don’t bite! Immersing with the local residents is part of the adventure. Read my experience inside the town hall here…

[4] Go Visit the Abra River

Visiting the Abra River is a must since it offers you a raw beauty. Take note that there are many towns where this river flows and San Quintin is just one of them. This site is located at the back of the town hall. Take a left turn from the road near the town hall (refer to the map above).

Possible activities you can do at this part of the Abra River are picknicking, fishing, swimming and why not do kayaking if you have the equipments, right? Oh no, not surfing, even though you have equipments, no surfing please if you don’t want to surf your life, LOL!

[5] Cross the Abra River

If you won’t try crossing the Abra River, your San Quintin experience won’t be complete. This river crossing is free you know. It is funded by the provincial government of Abra to assist the residents in crossing the river – because there is no bridge to connect the communities. Wondering where to see the boatman? Just focus your eyes to the other side of the river and make a big wave. Be sure the boatmen are looking. They will come to fetch you.

So live like a local resident. But mind you, this is not a cruise ship that all you need is comfort. You need to adjust for the situation and act like a local resident. You can also act like a visitor if you want, that’s not a problem but be sure you know how to adjust while on board the boat because it is not all about the comfort, but I would say it is an enjoyable experience. Read my river crossing experience here…

[6] Angalo Footprint Challenge

After the river crossing, try to look and identify the footprint of Angalo. Angalo is a mythical giant that forms one of the most popular legends in Abra. From this side of the river where the boatmen have lead you, you can actually see the footprint because it is gigantic.

I was not able to see it up close because you need to take a longer boat ride to reach the actual place. Learn more about this footprint here…

[7] The Cabaruyan Falls Challenge

I was not able to see the Cabaruyan Falls, also called the Hidden Falls in Brgy. Labaan but I will leave this to you as a challenge to explore it, the challenge to find your direction here and the challenge to share a travel guide here. To give you an idea how this natural wonder looks like, I have found a video here.

That’s it! I hope you’ll enjoy your town exploration in San Quintin soon! Please inform me if you have seen the waterfalls. As of now, I am still planning to go there for me to update this post.

How to Go to San Quintin, Abra

From Manila: Take Partas Bus or Viron Busline, they have daily trips from Manila to Abra. These bus companies pass through San Quintin. Travel time is about 8-9 hours.

From Vigan: Go to Vigan Bus and Jeepney Terminal. Take a Vigan-Bangued bus. Most buses that take that route are non-AC and are most of the time old-type mini-bus. Travel time is approximately 1 hour.

Narvacan Junction: If mistakenly took a north-bound bus that goes directly to Laoag or Vigan, drop at Narvacan Junction. Abra-bound buses all enter in this junction.

Travel Notes

The river crossing is available only from 8am to 4-5 pm. Once you crossed the river, be sure to be back before 4-5 pm if you have nowhere to sleep or else you’re stranded and wait for tomorrow’s schedule.

Staying here overnight is not recommended unless you have relatives or friends you trust where you can stay the whole night. Day tour is recommended. Accommodations near San Quintin are located in Narvacan (Ilocos Sur) and Bangued, Abra.

EDMARATION etc Copyright2011